… In less than six hours it was done: The 5th redpoint ascent of this historic 300 m route MINGUS
Established by C. Froifond in 1986 (7b A1).
I have tried a few days before only the last 6 pitches and managed to Onsight 5 of them. At one I had a bad feeling to fall on the ledge because of the (way too) rusty 8 mm bolt which was hanging coming out almost by itself at pitch 10.
The rest of the route I managed onsight – not the 8a pitch – where I needed to rape my skin for a second go.
NOTE: Now it`s ready for rebolting. 90% of the original Bolts from 1986 are spinning and just rusting there in this amazing landscape.
Mich Kemeter – http://michael-kemeter.com/